Sewing School Saturday - Hems

 I've been without my computer for over a week now, and let me tell you, it's been tough!  I do not think of myself as "technologically advanced".  Quite the opposite.  I have yet to figure out texting, find facebook confusing, and panic whenever anything changes on my email.  Actually I don't really know how I ended up with a blog.
All that being said,   I have felt very disconnected with my world this week!  And I'm very glad to have it back again!

So moving on to today's topic --  

Hems

         There are about as many methods of hemming as there are seamstresses.  We're going to talk about 3 different kind of hems:

Straight hem 

Blind hems

Curved hems

 Straight hem.  This type of hem is commonly found on pants, straight cut skirts, and other sporty items.  You can make this any width, really, the most common being a 1" hem (in the example) or 1/2".
Start by marking the length of your hem.  Add 1 1/2", and trim.  Place the fabric wrong side up.  Press over 1/2" along the edge to be hemmed. 
Note on marking hems:  The item to be hemmed should always be marked ON the person or object it is intended for!  If you're making yourself a skirt, have someone else mark it while you wear it.  The easiest way is by using a stiff ruler and measuring up from the ground, so that it is even all the way around.

 Press over another 1", completely covering the raw edge, and pin in place.

Topstitch 7/8" from the folded edge. 

 Blind hems.  These are often done on dressier items - dress pants, drapes, etc.  You will need a blind hem foot for your machine.

Start by marking your hem and pressing over 1/2", then 1", as in the straight hem.  Instead of topstitching, however, you will fold this to the outside (without pressing), about 1/8" down from the inside pressed fold edge.  

 Put the unpressed fold along the metal guide of your blind hem foot.  Set the machine on the blind hem stitch.

 Start stitching, checking to be sure your fold is the correct amount.  The zigzag stitch should just be catching along the unpressed fold.

 When you reach the end of the hem, unfold it and press it flat.  You should see a zigzaggy pattern on the inside.

On the outside you should just be able to see tiny little vertical stitches.  Almost invisible!

Curved hems.  Curved hems (such as you would find on A-line, bias cut, or circle skirts)  require a little extra care, since the inside edge of your fold is shorter than the outside.  Start by marking the hem, adding 3/4", and trimming away the extra fabric. 
Note:  ALWAYS remember to hang your project for at least a week to allow the fabric to give and stretch before marking your hem.

Run an easing stitch (the longest stitch length on your machine) 1/2" from the raw edge. 

Press the edge to the inside along this line. 

Trim the folded edge to 1/4"

 

 Fold and press again 1/4" to the inside, covering the raw edge.  Pin in place.  Use the easing stitch to gently draw in the fabric as needed to get the hem to lie flat.

 

  Topstitch this in place (an alternative would be to blind hem by hand, but I don't have the patience for that!).  You should now have a nice, neat, curved hem!