Finishing seams

Today we're back to work!

There are many ways to finish a seam edge.  We're going to cover 4 of them--

• Overcasting         
• Flat felled         
• Seam tape/binding         
• French

Overcasting is the simplest and easiest way to finish a seam.  Simply place the raw edge of the seam under the middle of the presser foot, set your machine to a zig-zag stitch, and run down the entire length.  This keeps the raw edge from fraying.

Flat felled seams require a little more effort.  These are used when you want a sporty look, and you'll find them on most jeans.

Step 1.  Trim one side of the seam allowance to 1/4", leaving the other side at 5/8".


Step 2.  Fold the longer side over the shorter side, until the raw edge is touching the line of stitching.  Press.





Step 3.  Fold the entire seam allowance back down against the fabric, covering both raw edges.   Pin this is place.



Step 4.  Topstitch this down, 1/8" from the folded edge.


Step 5.  Run another line of stitching 1/8" from the original stitch line.

There's your finished, professional looking seam.

 

 Seam binding gives a similar look on the outside to the flat felled, but requires a separate seam binding.  The fun part of this is that you can use a contrast color or pattern to add interest.  I love the way this looks on the inside of jackets, pants, or other heavier items.








Step 1.  Cover the raw edge of the seam with a piece of double fold bias tape.  Pin in place.


Step 2.  Stitch 1/8" from the inside edge of the fold.


Step 3 (not shown).  With a wider seam binding, stitch again 1/8" from the outside folded edge.

You should now have a neat finished seam, with a little bit of color!

Option:  For a little more interest, try sewing your seam wrong sides together, and then use the seam binding on the outside of the garment!

French seams are used on very light or sheer materials where the other methods won't work.  This is a little more tricky.  The French seam must be started BEFORE you sew the seam together.

Step 1.  Pin your seam together, wrong sides together.



Step 2.  Sew the seam, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance.


Step 3.   Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching. Press flat.





Step 4.  Fold the seam along the seam line, right sides together.  Press and pin.


Step 5.  Sew another seam line, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance, capturing the raw edges inside your new seam allowance.




Step 6.  Press the seam open.  You should now have a nice, neat, finished seam, with no raw edges showing.